If I had high expectations for London Fashion Week this season, it met them all right from the start. The Central Saint Martins graduate show on Friday night featured fledgling names to know – Derek Lawlor and Laura Mackness stood out – while Saturday morning saw the debut of Kinder, a highly-experienced designer (Calvin Klein, Versace and Vivienne Westwood dot his CV) on the catwalk.
The rest of Saturday was fun too. Vivienne Westwood took her collection back to school – the tartan, school grey and Princess coats were lovely and Topshop Unique was a highlight. Dubbed a ‘festival from outerspace’ by the design team, it included digital prints, sculptural knits and a shimmering catwalk stage.
The same Topshop-sponsored venue played host to some of my favourite shows. Christopher Kane and Richard Nicoll both created jaw-dropping collections in a palette of nudes and pinks. Marios Schwab’s collection on Monday changed your perception of clothes – with 3-D prints on sculpted dresses. Elsewhere, Giles Deacon looked to his archive for a collection of fun-meets-sophistication and Luella brought Pixie Geldof on the catwalk for a cute, military-inspired collection.
Colour was the theme on Tuesday. Topshop-sponsored Mary Katrantzou wowed with geometric, jewel-like dresses for her first show, while Fashion East – that hotbed of new talent – showed Holly Fulton’s tangerine and midnight blue sparkling pieces. Henry Holland went for the rainbow suits, with Agyness Deyn and friends dressed top-to-toe in violet, sapphire, mint and rose, which, for an increasingly show-weary collection of fashion editors was a little ray of sunshine!
Overall, this fashion week has been one to remember – with experimentation, desirable pieces, exciting trends and Kanye West all in the front row. Roll on September – you have a lot to live up to.
By Lauren Cochrane