New York Fashion Week has wound down its run and after a week of fashion highs and temperature lows it’s ready to pass the baton on to London. But before we move into the spotlight, here are a few of our highlights from the week that was.
Going back to their roots this season, Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters took inspiration from early 80s Santa Cruz, California – the sleepy surfer town they grew up in. Picture dramatic tie-dyed floor-sweeping gowns, crystal studded knit sweater-and-skirt combos, and tough leather biker jackets lending a punk-rocker edge. Majorly cool model Chloe Nørgaard turned heads with striking neon hair she’d dip-dyed herself pre-show to match her outfit – LOVE!
It was a rockin’ 60s mod versus 90s grunge vibe at the Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony AW13 presentation, where super-cool dolly-bird models – including Sevigny herself – embraced an atmosphere of youth and anarchy. The collection looked like it had come straight out of Sevigny’s own enviable wardrobe: bold 60s designs including A-line skirts and swing coats, mohair sweaters, gingham and lace baby-doll dresses and PVC skirts and jackets were top of our wish-list.
Band of Outsiders
Band of Outsiders took a bold change of direction this season with 40s-inspired cuts and a bold black and white palette for AW13. Continuing the major monochrome trend this NYFW, designer Scott Sternberg explored 40s style tea-dresses and tailoring, and some 80s-inspired pieces including oversize sweaters and slouchy shift dresses with shawl necklines – something Sternberg attributes to being “a kid of the 80s”.
Alexander Wang’s always on-point downtown-cool aesthetic was in full effect for AW13 as awesome leather and wool looks in charcoal, black and navy took to the runway. Models, including Liberty Ross, with slicked back hair and popping orange pony tails stepped out to the theme tune of ‘Rocky 3’ in sporty-chic separates and outerwear that played on a boxing theme. Wang sent out menacing hoods and killer fur boxing gloves – a chic-tough vision that only Wang, the undisputed downtown NYC fashion star, could deliver.
6Cruella de Ville as a fashion icon? Hell yeah! The chic cartoon villain came to mind at Altuzarra for AW13, as models took to the catwalk in striking black and white combo fur coats and mittens, alongside super-strict tailored dresses, pant-suits and severely-skinny trousers. Over the last two seasons, Altuzarra has cemented his label as one of the major players of NYFW and this season was no exception, as he expertly made sexy-secretary style more appealing than ever.
It was back to the future at Theyskens Theory with a collection of super-cool future-60s looks for AW13. The effortlessly-cool designer experimented with volume and proportion this season to create updated-mod wear – quite a change from last season’s high-end grunge. Standout pieces for winter were spacey, trapeze mini-dresses and jackets in quilted fabric, amazing knee-high boots, swing skirts and loose-fitting shorts – overall it was a collection of wardrobe favourites for every fashion-loving girl to wear anywhere. Yes please!
Inside a sprawling warehouse space in Chelsea, Phillip Lim sent out his covetable collection for next season – a too-cool-for-school range of multi-layered, multi-hued separates and outerwear. With a Japanese biker theme, Lim’s collection referenced traditional biker styles including leather jackets, vests and racer-back dresses, reworked in the pretty-tough urban style he’s made his own. The stars of the show were the amazing outerwear pieces – from tailored jackets to overcoats and cropped pea coats, all were experimental and striking, yet eminently wearable.
With a front row consisting of 60s-style it-girls including Tennessee Thomas and Sarah Sophie Flicker, Karen Walker’s supercute 60s-meets-90s Fall/Winter 13 collection of pretty pieces went off with a bang. Karen Walker is for the anti-fashion girl who embraces a magpie mix of vintage, high-street and designer, and this is what Walker served up in droves this season. Spring-like floral skirts and dresses were paired with chunky knit beanies and biker jackets for a grungy rock’n’roll vibe that was perfectly topped off by bug and cat-eye shades for which the designer is famous.
Extreme Femininity was the title of Jason Wu’s Autumn offering, and it was an homage to the confident womanliness of his latest muses; the slinky Stephanie Seymour, who sat front row, and Michelle Obama who has made Wu her number one man for all her inauguration needs. Power-waists, diaphanous pleats, vampish scarlet cocktail dresses and pretty polka dots for good measure made for a collection that belongs out on the town on the backs of society princesses.
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